Foodies will love India's street food. Agra, India 29.07.2013

The morning rush for breakfast

If you are a traveler, and not a tourist, you will understand this installment. If you are the type of boring, stuffy tourist who only gets the continental breakfast at the boring continental hotel you are staying at, then this story will go right over your head and you are probably not even reading this.

There are rules to staying healthy on a trip to countries where water quality is questionable. I have been to India twice, for a total of 5 weeks, without any problems. The key is to drink only bottled water from a sealed bottle. Don't drink anything that has been made with water like juices or lime-aide, and be leery of most fruits. And as hot as it might get, never have a drink made with ice. Most places now sell bottles of water from a fridge, so you can stay cool. If you follow these simple steps, you should not have a problem.

With that being said, anything that is cooked will be all right. Heat kills anything that might be harmful. So now that we've got that out of the way, you can enjoy the fantastic food everywhere. Street food is the best and just follow the crowds to see who makes the best. You won't be disappointed.

morning deliveries are constant to keep up with demand

The morning we left Agra, we stopped off at a crowded area on the side of the road. The morning rush for a quick bite was brisk. We started with Kachori and Aloo Sabji in a bowl made of compressed Sal leaves. A great biodegradable product that has been used in India for centuries. We sopped up the Aloo Sabji with the fresh Kachori. And yes we, went back for more! For the sweet side after the wonderful spices of the Aloo Sabji, we had fresh Jalebi. If you've ever had a fresh Krispy Kreme donut, hot off the press, then that is close to what the jalebi tastes like. Well, that is as close a comparison as I can come up with. I will tell you that there is nothing like having this food fresh from someone who makes only this one product. It brings specialization to a whole new level.

This morning ritual reminds me of the way people hit Wawa, 7Eleven or Sheetz early in the morning in the US for their coffee and breakfasts, only this is made fresh, is quicker and is not full of GMOs and other preservatives. Oh, and it tastes way better!

Kachori and aloo sabji

fresh kachori made non stop

If you have never had a breakfast that was spicy, not only meaning with a little heat but also just spice flavors, then you don't know what you are missing. It really is a great way to kick start the day.

this gentleman makes fresh jalebis in hot oil

there is a wonderful, artistic flair in the way he pours the mixture into the oil

The result is a sweet treat that you just have to try for yourself!

Don't be a tourist. Be a traveler. Get out there and live like the locals if you want to share in this worlds diverse and exciting cultures. Taste it!

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Agra, India. Taj Mahal. 28.07.2013

The almighty Taj Mahal

We all have our bucket lists. Mine has never been very full, but there have always been several things on my list for quite some time. I am thankful to now be able to check off the absolute number one.

The Taj Mahal has been my number one for as long as I can remember. From the first photos I saw as a child to repeated images on TV and in film, it has always captivated me. First thing was always the absolute perfectness of it. It is, in my opinion, the most perfect thing every created by man. It is the most perfect piece of architecture ever constructed or conceived of by man. It is perfection. From the details on how the minarets actually lean away from the main structure, not only to keep them visually straight, but just in case there was an earthquake, they will fall away. They had the wherewithal to keep this in mind in 1632!

The color of the marble is enhanced by the alcoves, in which, the shadows created within add depth and texture. The carvings, reliefs and inlays are something you have to see with your own eyes. Photography inside is forbidden, which is a shame. This is where a nice photo book from one of the shops nearby can come in handy. The tombs were also off limits, I'm not sure why. Probably due to threats of terrorism.

the Great Gate, entrance to the Taj Mahal

I could have stayed there all day. If we had the opportunity to be there at a better time of year, I would have. I would have gone first thing in the morning, to get the best light. I would have stayed until sunset to get the effect that would have on the white marble. Unfortunately it was extremely hot and humid and I was soaked before we got in the gate. It was also very overcast, so the photos I wanted to take will have to wait for next time.

Taj Mahal Masjid sits to the left of the main building

Main entrance

roof of the main entrance with inlay of flowers and Arabic calligraphy

Arabic calligraphy inlay by Amanat Khan

looking past one of the minarets to the Yamuna river

Incredible inlay detail everywhere!

Closeup of inlay

Looking past the Yamuna river to the Moonlight Gardens, part of the original plan

Great inlay designs everywhere

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Delhi, India. Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah. 25.07.2013

The crowds were heavy in the narrow streets around the Durgah

In the evening of the 25th, after a long and adventurous day, we headed to the Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah to pay our respects as it was the month of Ramzan. Inside the same complex is the Amir Khusrow Dargah. We arrived just before the evening fast was to be broken and hundreds were in attendance in observance and waiting patiently to eat.

Color and sound was explosive and the flowers were stunning. I have never witnessed such an event and even though I had some feelings of trepidation, my wife had everything under control and eased me though it. I love to visit new places and see new people. Some old habits need to be broken and opening one's self up to new travels and experiences, even those you have never been privy to, is liberating. What we learn about other cultures in the West is what they want you to know, not what is.

Fresh flowers adorn the tomb

People were very nice and helped us with the offerings and kufis. We even had a woman walk us all the way in and back out.

a young boy with incense

men waiting to eat after a long fast

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Delhi, India. Red Fort. 25.07.2013

Red Fort. Delhi, India

One of the largest complexes in Delhi is the Red Fort. The Red Fort is a 17th-century fort complex constructed by the Rajput King, Prithviraj Chauhan in the walled city of Old Delhi, after defeat of Rajput it served as the residence of the Mughal Emperors. This place is immense. There are numerous structures and there are even British era structures inside. Some of the nicest architecture in Delhi. It gets it's name from the red sandstone used for the majority of its walls and structures.

Upon entering, you pass through a tunnel-like complex now home to vendors, which opens up to the main grounds and the structures beyond.

The Diwan-i-Aam, or the hall for public appearances features a raised, canopied alcove for the Emperor to sit and hear complaints from the commoners.

Colonnade in the Diwan-i-Aam

Alcove of Emperor in the Diwan-i-Aam

Naqqar Khana (Drum House) was located at the entrance point of the Rang Mahal. Music was played at specific times in the day alongside a large gate. People who visited the fort and would come on elephants, would get off of at this gate. wikipedia

Impressive door to the Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque

Sawan Pavillion. Water flowed from the center, down into the reflecting pool in front

The Zafar Mahal was once surrounded by a massive pool

My favorite structure in the complex would be the Diwan-i-Khas, or hall for private audiences. Breathtaking inlays in white marble will have you staring for a long time. The whole complex has an intricate water system that fed dozens of pools and water features in and out of the buildings. While not working today, you can judge for yourself how they might of worked in an era without mechanical means.

Diwan-i-Khas

Pillar inlay detail from the Diwan-i-Khas

Close-up detail of the pillar from the Diwan-i-Khas

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Delhi, India. Humayun's Tomb. 25.07.2013

Humayun's Tomb

You will never be bored in Delhi. If you like history, architecture and stunning beauty, then take advantage of every opportunity.

Humayun's Tomb is a stunning piece of Mughal architecture. If you think Humayun's Tomb looks a bit like the Taj Mahal in Agra, that's because it was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal's creation. The tomb was built in 1570, and houses the body of the second Mughal emperor, Humayun. It was the first of this type of Mughal architecture to be built in India, and the Mughal rulers followed it up with an extensive period of construction all over the country. The tomb is part of a greater complex that's set amongst beautiful gardens and other Mughal architectural treats.about.com India travel

Entrance gate to Isa Khan Niyazi's tomb. Within the Humayun Complex.

Arch detail on Entrance Isa Khan Niyazi's tomb.

Carving detail on Entrance Isa Khan Niyazi's tomb.

Isa Khan Niyazi's tomb.

Marble screen in Humayun's Tomb

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Handmade art and trinkets are a must have. 04.08.2013

Hand carved wooden friezes and other art are a feast for the eyes

You can't go to India, or any other country with a rich artisan, cultural and religious history, without bringing home a souvenir. Sunday was my last day in India. Most stores are closed to shopping on Sundays. Most tourist attractions and museums are closed on Mondays. There is one place in Delhi that is open on Sunday.

Dilli Haat is a crafts village. A very nice one at that. It is government supported. It is important not only to Delhi, but to all areas of India. These are permanent structures, clean and shade trees as you walk through. There is a food court. There are a couple of permanent sellers with small buildings, but for the most part most of the venders that are there have brought their wares from their home or village and have around 15 days to sell what they can.

This is real art. Jewelry, carvings, brass objects, textiles, camel leather shoes and handbags. Just incredible stuff. I wanted to have a container to take back all that caught my eye. These are not some of the cheap crap you find near the tourist spots. Since the government is involved, somewhat without corruption, they seem to weed out the junk from the jewels. And that's a good thing, because just like China is invading this country with it's cheap, plastic crap, it is also finding it's way into India. Seriously. Some of the chotchkies being sold around India are knockoffs being made in China. Some less than savvy tourist think they are buying things made in India, when in fact, they are getting a Chinese factory made fake. So beware. I was getting a water when 3 American high school girls came up to the beverage stall owner and was negotiating a price for some "sculptures". They were, in fact, just some poured resin castings that had been artificially patinaed. I wanted to warn them but somethings are better left to be learned about first hand.

The prices were good. But the best thing is if they are desperate to sell, due to the fact they don't want to take all of the stuff back home, you have the bargaining chip in your pocket. Always haggle. Never settle. Some Indian vendors are starting to put up "no haggle" signs. Keep walking. You will find a better deal.

We purchased some paintings from this gentleman who was from Bihar. He and his sister and several others from his village painted all of these by hand. They were easy to transport also.

Some of the artists themselves are present and are working while they sell. Here a woman sketches out a design before applying the paint on some textiles.

This gentleman is painting on the glaze before firing.

His finished glazeware was wonderful. NOT made in China.

Don't miss out on the opportunity to take back a keepsake from your travels. It keeps artists and their families alive, keeps the Indian economy going and will always remind you or your loved ones what a wonderful sojourn you had.

Hand painted shawls take hours, even days to complete.

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