Delhi, India. Purana Qila complex. 01.08.2013

The grounds of the Purana Qila looking towards the Humayun Gate

About four hundred meters away from where the the Yamuna River is today, sitting on a small hilltop and walled even higher, sits what is referred to as the "Sixth City of Delhi". Delhi has been the capitol of several empires over the ages, and is numbered so. The Purana Qila is the oldest fort complex in Delhi while also holding the distinction of oldest structure.

The structure sits on the site of one off the oldest civilizations in modern day India, possibly dating back over 5000 years, on what is thought as Indraprastha, possible capitol of the Pandavas. Most of what we see today was built by the Afghan king Sher Shah Suri, but still was not finished upon his death in 1545.

lush green grounds are welcoming in the city

Inside the walls, there are only 2 structures left out of what is thought to have been hundreds of structures. Extensive grounds fill the void and is now a meeting place for families and lovers, sitting in the grass under the palms, and gazing out over the modern metropolis of Delhi.

West Gate entrance into Purana Qila

Entering through the West gate, we proceeded almost straight ahead a few meters to the largest structure on the grounds, the Qila Kuhna Masjid, as it rises in front of us, its multicolored sandstone facade glowing in the afternoon sun.

The back of the Qila Kuhna Masjid

The Qila Kuhna Masjid (Mosque), was built in 1541 by Sher Shah Suri and is a good example of Pre-Mughal design. The sandstone structure was at one time, covered in a layer of mostly white marble with complex inlays of various colored stones. It is still quite beautiful and the front courtyard overlooks Delhi, with young and old meeting here regularly.

The ground here is about treetop level of the modern city of Delhi

Late afternoon sun shines over the Qila Kuhna Masjid

Part of the outer wall defenses of the Purana Qila run right next to the Qila Kuhna Masjid

Inside detail of the single domed mosque, Qila Kuhna Masjid

The other structure that still stands on the grounds is the Sher Mandal. It was started by Farid (Sher Shah) and was finished by Humayun. It is a two storied tower, which was intended to be higher, but finished nonetheless, and used as a library and observatory by Humayun. It is also one of oldest observatories built in Delhi.

The Sher Mandal

In January of 1556, Humayun, tripped and fell headlong down the flight of stone stairs on his way to prayer. He passed two days later. Entrance into the structure is now forbidden.

The grounds of the complex was also used as refugee camps upon the Partition of India in 1947. Nearly 200,000 refugees were encamped here, as well as Humayun's tomb, while waiting for the newly formed Indian government to work out the train situation for getting those who wanted to go to newly formed Pakistan, including thousands of government employees willing to relocate.

There is so much to see in Delhi, I guess it should start where it all started anyway. The Purana Qila is steeped in history older than most of can imagine. I'm just glad India is not like America, or there would be a mall and a parking lot where the Purana Qila still sits today.