Golden Temple. Amristar, India. 30.07.13

The view of the Golden Temple as you enter

I have to say, the Golden Temple was my number 2 on my bucket list, and I am so glad I was able to experience this magnificent and holy place. This Sikh Gurdwara is the resting place for the Adi Granth, the holy scriptures for the Sikhs.

This temple, in keeping with the Sikh faith, is open to people of all religions, race, creed or financial status. You must remove your shoes and men must wear trousers, and women must not be scantily clad. There is a shoe drop off a few hundred yards away from the East entrance and you walk along woven mats to stave off the heat of the pavement. I'm sure each entrance has a place to leave your shoes. Everyone must cover their head. We were sold some basic orange head wear as we parked our car in the nice parking deck a few blocks away. We took a ricksha to the shoe drop off and walked from there.

You are surrounded by whitewashed buildings and marble under your feet, which thankfully stays cooler than you would think even when it was 105 degrees! You must walk clockwise to get to the queue that will allow you to see everything. The queue is long, but moves well and there are fans and a canopy to protect you from the sun.

in the queue

another view of the Harmandir Sahib as you walk around

large carp welcome you to the Sarovar, or Holy Tank

One of the Holy Trees, or bers, signifying a historical event or Sikh saint

As we were able to pay our respects at the Harmandir Sahib, the music coming from inside was inspiring. It never ceases to amaze me that these truly Holy sites are a place where every man, woman or child, no matter what you believe in, should visit to contemplate life and a to be better human being. You don't have to give up your faith, you don't have to start believing if you now don't, you just have to share and respect others. An I thank my Sikh friends for allowing me to share in their lives.

The top of the Akal Takht, which means "The throne of the timeless one"

wonderful architecture all around you

Amritsar, India. Site of Jallianwala Bagh massacre. 30.07.2013

The gardens at Jallianwala Bagh

On Sunday, April 13, 1919 in Amritsar, India, the British opened fire on unarmed, innocent men, women and children. In their wake they left over 1,000 dead and over 1,100 injured. It is known as the Jallianwala Bagh massacre. There was only one way out and the soldiers had it blocked.

This narrow ally is all that stood between the British guns and freedom

The site is preserved and very sacred. The grounds are extremely well kept and there is a palpable sense of sadness as you walk around. There is a monument near the center, and the well, known as The Martyrs' Well, where so many jumped in to flee the soldiers bullets, is preserved. Over 120 bodies were later pulled out of the well. It is hard to take in. It is hard to believe that fellow humans can take life like that and sleep at night.

Around the grounds, there are walls where some of the thousands of rounds fired upon the people, have left an indelible mark. This is but one, of the many instances that the British "Raj", I really don't like that term for them, used unabashed brutal lethal force on unarmed innocent people. The raping and pillaging of the entire region was carried out for an astonishing amount of time unabated, from around 1600 to 1947. It does boggle the mind.

The sandstone monument to those who died

Actual bullet holes in the surrounding walls.

Bullet holes are marked

Jallianwala Bagh Memorial

Surrounding architecture

A view inside the Martyrs' Well. It is very deep.

What gives the right for some humans to think they are better than others?

Foodies will love India's street food. Agra, India 29.07.2013

The morning rush for breakfast

If you are a traveler, and not a tourist, you will understand this installment. If you are the type of boring, stuffy tourist who only gets the continental breakfast at the boring continental hotel you are staying at, then this story will go right over your head and you are probably not even reading this.

There are rules to staying healthy on a trip to countries where water quality is questionable. I have been to India twice, for a total of 5 weeks, without any problems. The key is to drink only bottled water from a sealed bottle. Don't drink anything that has been made with water like juices or lime-aide, and be leery of most fruits. And as hot as it might get, never have a drink made with ice. Most places now sell bottles of water from a fridge, so you can stay cool. If you follow these simple steps, you should not have a problem.

With that being said, anything that is cooked will be all right. Heat kills anything that might be harmful. So now that we've got that out of the way, you can enjoy the fantastic food everywhere. Street food is the best and just follow the crowds to see who makes the best. You won't be disappointed.

morning deliveries are constant to keep up with demand

The morning we left Agra, we stopped off at a crowded area on the side of the road. The morning rush for a quick bite was brisk. We started with Kachori and Aloo Sabji in a bowl made of compressed Sal leaves. A great biodegradable product that has been used in India for centuries. We sopped up the Aloo Sabji with the fresh Kachori. And yes we, went back for more! For the sweet side after the wonderful spices of the Aloo Sabji, we had fresh Jalebi. If you've ever had a fresh Krispy Kreme donut, hot off the press, then that is close to what the jalebi tastes like. Well, that is as close a comparison as I can come up with. I will tell you that there is nothing like having this food fresh from someone who makes only this one product. It brings specialization to a whole new level.

This morning ritual reminds me of the way people hit Wawa, 7Eleven or Sheetz early in the morning in the US for their coffee and breakfasts, only this is made fresh, is quicker and is not full of GMOs and other preservatives. Oh, and it tastes way better!

Kachori and aloo sabji

fresh kachori made non stop

If you have never had a breakfast that was spicy, not only meaning with a little heat but also just spice flavors, then you don't know what you are missing. It really is a great way to kick start the day.

this gentleman makes fresh jalebis in hot oil

there is a wonderful, artistic flair in the way he pours the mixture into the oil

The result is a sweet treat that you just have to try for yourself!

Don't be a tourist. Be a traveler. Get out there and live like the locals if you want to share in this worlds diverse and exciting cultures. Taste it!

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Agra, India. Taj Mahal. 28.07.2013

The almighty Taj Mahal

We all have our bucket lists. Mine has never been very full, but there have always been several things on my list for quite some time. I am thankful to now be able to check off the absolute number one.

The Taj Mahal has been my number one for as long as I can remember. From the first photos I saw as a child to repeated images on TV and in film, it has always captivated me. First thing was always the absolute perfectness of it. It is, in my opinion, the most perfect thing every created by man. It is the most perfect piece of architecture ever constructed or conceived of by man. It is perfection. From the details on how the minarets actually lean away from the main structure, not only to keep them visually straight, but just in case there was an earthquake, they will fall away. They had the wherewithal to keep this in mind in 1632!

The color of the marble is enhanced by the alcoves, in which, the shadows created within add depth and texture. The carvings, reliefs and inlays are something you have to see with your own eyes. Photography inside is forbidden, which is a shame. This is where a nice photo book from one of the shops nearby can come in handy. The tombs were also off limits, I'm not sure why. Probably due to threats of terrorism.

the Great Gate, entrance to the Taj Mahal

I could have stayed there all day. If we had the opportunity to be there at a better time of year, I would have. I would have gone first thing in the morning, to get the best light. I would have stayed until sunset to get the effect that would have on the white marble. Unfortunately it was extremely hot and humid and I was soaked before we got in the gate. It was also very overcast, so the photos I wanted to take will have to wait for next time.

Taj Mahal Masjid sits to the left of the main building

Main entrance

roof of the main entrance with inlay of flowers and Arabic calligraphy

Arabic calligraphy inlay by Amanat Khan

looking past one of the minarets to the Yamuna river

Incredible inlay detail everywhere!

Closeup of inlay

Looking past the Yamuna river to the Moonlight Gardens, part of the original plan

Great inlay designs everywhere

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Delhi, India. Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah. 25.07.2013

The crowds were heavy in the narrow streets around the Durgah

In the evening of the 25th, after a long and adventurous day, we headed to the Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah to pay our respects as it was the month of Ramzan. Inside the same complex is the Amir Khusrow Dargah. We arrived just before the evening fast was to be broken and hundreds were in attendance in observance and waiting patiently to eat.

Color and sound was explosive and the flowers were stunning. I have never witnessed such an event and even though I had some feelings of trepidation, my wife had everything under control and eased me though it. I love to visit new places and see new people. Some old habits need to be broken and opening one's self up to new travels and experiences, even those you have never been privy to, is liberating. What we learn about other cultures in the West is what they want you to know, not what is.

Fresh flowers adorn the tomb

People were very nice and helped us with the offerings and kufis. We even had a woman walk us all the way in and back out.

a young boy with incense

men waiting to eat after a long fast

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